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I had always fancied buying a 3D printer, and did some preliminary research. Unfortunately, most of them didn’t support Linux, so I wasn’t spending a couple of hundred pounds on one. One day, while scrolling through my Google+ feed, I saw that fellow Linux user Alan Lord had been building a 3D printer with his son. I enquired about the printer, and its compatibility, and with it being around the £200 mark… it was perfect! The RepRapPro Fisher 1 uses an Arduino compatible board as a controller, which has a micro-SD port. You can either store files to print on the SD card, or you can upload to the SD card from the Fisher’s interface. You connect the printer to your router or, in my case, connect it directly to a desktop/laptop PC. More on direct connections near the end of this series when I show how I connected mine directly to my laptop.
J'ai toujours imaginé d'acheter une imprimante 3D et j'avais fait quelques recherches préliminaires. Malheureusement,la plupart d'entre elles en supportaient pas Linux ; aussi, je n'ai pas dépensé quelques centaines de livres pour en acheter une. Un jour, en parcourant mon fil Google+, j'ai vu que l'ami utilisateur Linux Alan Lord avait construit une imprimante 3D avec son fils. Je me renseignais au sujet de cette imprimante et de sa compatibilité, et en plus elle valait autour de 200 £ (env. 273 €)… C'était parfait !
La RepRapPro Fisher 1 utilise une carte compatible Arduino comme contrôleur ; elle comporte un port micro-SD. Vous pouvez, soit stocker les fichiers à imprimer sur la carte SD, soit les téléversers urc ette carte SD par l'interface de la Fisher. Vous connectez l'imprimante à votre routeur ou, dans mon cas, directement à l'ordinateur de bureau / portable. Vous en saurez plus sur les connexions directes vers la fin de cette série quand je montrerai comment je connecte la mienne directement à mon portable.
What’s In The Box? Opening that box, and seeing all those bits, is quite intimidating. Thankfully RepRapPro has some excellent build instructions: https://reprappro.com/documentation/fisher-1. Those of you who bought an earlier Fisher, which was still in beta, will notice that some parts, and the build, are different. I should also mention that the Fisher 1 comes in two flavors. The first, the more expensive, is a full kit with everything you need. This is the one I bought. The second, slightly cheaper, is a kit with some parts not included. The idea behind this is that if you already have a 3D printer you can print some parts yourself.
Dans la boîte
L'ouverture de la boîte, et la vision de toutes ces pièces est intimidante. Par bonheu, RepRapPro a d'excellentes instructions de montage : https://reprappro.com/documentation/fisher-1. Ceux d'entre vous qui ont acheté une Fisher précédemment, qui était encore en bêta, noteront que certaines pièces et le montage sont différents.
Je dois aussi dire que la Fisher 1 existe en deux versions. La première, la plus chère, est un kit complet avec tout ce dont vous avez besoin. La seconde, légèrement moins chère, est un kit dans lequel certaines pièces ne sont pas incluses. L'idée derrière ça est que, si vous avez déjà une imprimante 3D, vous pouvez imprimer certaines pièces vous-mêmes.
The Base The first thing that needs to be built is the base. This is a triangular shaped plastic base which has three pairs of rods connected to a motor. This is the first hurdle as you must make sure that of the three motors, two must have their connection pointing to the left, and the third should be pointing right. Thankfully, RepRap does highlight this in the instructions. Next, the actual base. Everything that’s black plastic has a thin film over both sides. It may not look like it, but it does. You must peel it off. The Duet (the Arduino style board) is screwed to the base and the three pairs of rods are fed through holes in the base and screwed into place.
The Tower Three carriages are used to move three arms up and down (and effectively, in and out). These are created using two metal cylinders, one of the (in my case) supplied printed parts, and several screws and bolts. All the screws, bolts and washers are in ziplock bags with part numbers on them. Each stage of the build instructions will tell you exactly which screw or washer to use. For example: Using an M3x16mm cap head screw, fit this into the carriage as shown. Put an M3 plain washer, then an M3 Nylock nut, to hold it in place. Looking at the components list at the start of the section it says what is shown in the box above. That tells you exactly which bag to go for (Fastener), part number (which is on the bag), the name of the component, and how many you’ll need.
The carriages are tricky and you really need to take time to get these spot on. Ideally you’ll need digital callipers for this as you need to screw a couple of threaded steel balls on either end and the width from ball to ball is specified and needs to be exact. If needed, you may have to file down the screws to bring the balls inwards to meet the target. With three carriages made, you slide them down the pairs of rods. At the top of each pair of rods is an idler bracket. Nearer the end you’ll wrap the toothed belt through carriages and over these idler brackets. Next month, it’ll be side panels, more rods, and (the rather tricky) effector assembly.