Ceci est une ancienne révision du document !
With this part of the Fisher 1 build, we give it some sides. There are two sides and a back. The back, which comes later, is where we access the SD card slot and have the power jack. Again, you need to peel the protective covering from both sides of the two side panels. Endstops are little microswitches that your carriages will touch and signal that they’ve reached their end point. These microswitches are held in place with small cable ties. The two side panels are held in place by several screws.
Connecting Rods
This one (below left) is a bit of a boring job. You get two sheets of strips. You pop the strips out of the sheet in pairs. Again, you remove the protective covering from both sides of each rod, then screw the rods together. Then do it all five more times. You get six rods—each made up with a pair of strips screwed together.
The rods should be carefully pried apart at the edges and the steel ball on the sides of the carriages goes between the pair of strips on the rods.
Effector Assembly
The nozzle that’ll heat up and melt the plastic filament sits inside the effector (below right). The effector is attached to the rods. Hopefully, now you can see how the nozzle will move, or be aimed. The carriages will, independently, go up/down with the effector dangling from the carriages on the rods.
The effector is a tricky contraption to build. It involves trying to tighten screws that are quite well hidden, so having angled screwdrivers, or Allen keys, would be helpful here. Took a bit of fiddling, but I managed it in the end with just straight screwdrivers and with Allen keys that I normally use on my bicycle.
Again, you’ll need the callipers to check the total width of the sides with more steel balls screwed in place. You might need a metal file for this to shorten the screws and bring the steel balls back a touch.
Extruder Assembly
The extruder, as you might have guessed, extrudes your PLA plastic filament. It feeds the filament down a tube into the heated nozzle.
Yet again, more peeling of plastic. The extruder uses up the last motor in the box of bits and requires you to insert the tiniest of screws into a winding mechanism. So make sure you have a really small Allen key handy.
You also need to make the idler lever, which you can think of as being a setting screw to set how tight, or slack, you will be pulling in the filament.
Once you put all the pieces together, you are left with the final extruder. With this made, you can now cut a piece of filament and try putting it into the assembly, then winding the mechanism to pull the filament into the assembly and out the other end. This is also where you fine-tune that ‘setting screw’ I mentioned. You should be able to gently hold the filament between your fingers and still have it pull through. This takes a bit of tweaking, but can still be tweaked when it’s in its final place.
Next time, we’ll be fitting the hot end (nozzle) and putting the other electronic bits in place.
PETIT ENCART
REPRAPPRO RIP
As this issue is released it appears that RepRapPro have ceased trading and closed their store.
This means there are no spares/help for RepRapPro devices.
While this is a great printer it is now unavailable, and I don't recommend you buy a second hand RepRapPro printer since there is no support nor spares available for these printers now.